Here we have Mr. Mago.
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They hit you with the 'Most Requested' recipes first. And yes, that's a recipe for a bundt cake. Yes, it's made with a can of tomato sauce. And it's not bad. My godmother used to make this. You do not taste the tomato at all; it's just really rich and sweet. And an odd, deep red.
Ta Da!!! Here it is. The Hunts Complete Tomato Sauce Cookbook, artfully displayed with all my products, and my paper towels up there, and my Braggs Liquid Aminos. And my Cuisinart.
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You got this book by sending in a can label and a buck eighty-nine to Hunts - or you got one as a free gift at the cash register at our local supermarket. You weren't supposed to, though. The thing was, Hunts would send a bunch of these recipe books out with a shipment of stock. They were meant as a gift for the store employees. The employees, however, already had several metric shit-tons of promotional cookbooks. They just stacked these up at the register and tossed one into your grocery bag if you bought a can of tomato sauce. This is how my mom got her copy.
This ain't it. This is one I got at a thrift store.
1976, folks.
Americas' Bicentennial year. The Meat Crisis - and I do not lie, there was such a thing and that's what it was called - of 1973-4 had scared homemakers to death. Everyone was still buying hamburger and TVP and whatever the fuck a Round Steak was, convinced that cows were an endangered species or something. You'd think people were going to starve to death the way they went on about there being No Beef. (This was way before Clara Peller.) It's what lead us at the Lil' First Nations household to purchase horse meat.
Our local store, Derringers, had ground up and sold the last of the beef it had been holding in reserve. People were buttonholing the owner after church about when was he going to get in more steaks, the poor fucker. In a moment of desperation, he brought in a shipment of fresh horse meat from somewhere. We weren't supposed to know it was from Eastern Oregon, but everyone did. Why this was such a huge thing at the time eludes me.
Anyway, there it lay in the meat case one day, beautifully packaged, surrounded by parsley and crushed ice, so lean it was purple.
Horse, as it turns out, is delicious.
This has nothing to do with tomato sauce, by the way. I just thought you should know.
God I love 1970's food photography! It makes everything look so sexy! Not so much my attempts to display this book in an arty way.
As for the Quick Spaghetti? ^^^ It's absolutely horrid. In fact, here we have the first example of the Gross Misuse of Brown Sugar, Mr. Mago. Clicky to biggie ^^^. Or maybe don't.
Oh my God, oh damn, oh fuck, I have gotten so much therapy mileage out of this ^^^ recipe over the years...
This is the concoction known as 'Swiss Steak' to anyone who grew up in the U.S. in the 1970's.
In my house, this is what Mom cooked when she was angry.
And cooked. And cooked. And cooked. And cooked.
Before any cooking took place, she had to beat that steak with a meat mallet while she sprinkled on flour, handful after handful. Fuck this 'two tablespoons' shit. My mom would flatten that round steak out until you could read a newspaper through it. A paste would form and ball up into a blob of flour mixed with beef fragments on the mallet. She'd pick off the blob and eat that shit raw - then go right back to whacking the steak. Then the poor round steak would go into a huge iron frying pan with all the tomato sauce and whatnot on 'low' and proceed throw off about a pint of grey water, and shrink, and curdle, and curl up like a bowl. You could look over from the dining room table and see the rim of that 'bowl' jiggling just above the brim of the pan. I remember this stuff going from two in the afternoon until six in the evening - but surely that can't be right?
Oh yes. Yes it can.
Aaaaaand we're done with that Dickensian Childhood Interlude.
To continue.
Now everybody is going to go 'Ewwww'. And that's because you're barbarians. VVVV
They used to serve Tomato Aspic at Lippman and Wolfes' fancy-schmancy Frango Lounge, along with a martini for Mom, and a silver platter full of small, cold luncheon this and thats - which, if you were twelve, was just SO STINKIN' ELEGANT. You got a selection of special forks and spoons to use with each different nibble, and on a dish by itself the glistening aspic jiggled whenever someone bumped the table.
Did The Frango Lounge use this ^^^ recipe? Oh fuck no! God no. No no no.
This image ^^^ I took does nothing to convey the heaving sensuality conveyed by this meatloaf photograph. It basks in a mellow, sultry light, glistening with fat and juices, tipped toward the camera as if to say 'Go ahead, Tiger. Have a slice.' And it's a good thing it has all that going for it, because the recipe is garbage. vvvvv
Here we are again with the Brown Damn Sugar Mr. Mago.
There is no reason for brown sugar to be in this meatloaf recipe. Seriously. None. In fact there's no reason for tomato sauce to be in this recipe either. -OK OK fine I know your mom did it and your aunts did it and your grandmas and your great-grandmas, but it's wrong and weird and they all burn in Hell now. And Do Not start me on BARBECUE SAUCE ON TOP OF MEATLOAF NO NO NO NO. Or tomato paste or tomato ketchup or CAMPBELLS TOMATO SOUP GAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH.
My strong reaction is due to another incident of Childhood Mealtime Atrocity. I'll spare you the tale and leave you instead with six words - Wonder Bread. Tomato Sauce. Two Hours On Low.
Yeah, that's eight words. Fine.
OO, this is extra atrocious! ^^^
This ^^^ is what they're trying to say is a Pacific Northwest dish.
IT IS NOT.
We have access to fresh-caught salmon here. NOBODY EATS CANNED SALMON. And nobody who has ever tasted fresh salmon would ever dream of doing something this ^^^ heinous to it.
Oh, well, unless they moved here from like the Midwest, or the South, where people literally do not care what they put in their mouths. They eat shit like Mayonnaise Cake in those places and then they move here and cry for canned salmon. 'Oh my, where is the canned salmon I done growed up on,' they wail.
I say 'Yes well, look at how you grew up, asking for canned salmon. You need to get your shit together.'
Don't ask me what they were smoking back there in the Test Kitchen.
Before bagels became the bread product of the trendy there was the Pita; and before the Pita - and it's co-conspirator the Alfalfa Sprout -came the CREPE. We are way back in time here with these Sassy rascals.
You probably had a crepe maker; you probably got one for your wedding or something. Nobody ever used the thing, because Crepes Are Finicky. They stick. They tear. They're clammy. You have to eat them instantly or they get rubbery and weird; and then what are you? The crepe slave, pouring batter and crying while all your friends are in the other room being all cool eating crepes.
I don't know what's making these Crepes so sassy. Maybe it's the 1/2 teaspoon chili powder.
Honestly, this is just a taco.
Make a taco.
Just make a taco.
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Honestly, kids, I don't have the heart to go any further. This cookbook is triggering me. I mean it! Just reading this post over for mistakes I can taste the memory of this stuff on the back of my tongue, like heartburn. So I will leave you here with the Sassy Crepes and hope that you have a pleasant rest of your life.
And please just say NO to brown sugar, OK?
I can honestly say that I have NEVER EVER seen a cookbook like yours, sweetpea! I don't remember my Mama even having a cookbook! She knew how to cook, she just didn't need a book telling what to do. BUT, she did give me a copy of The Joy of Cooking shortly after I got married because I hadn't bothered to learn how to cook. Go figure. BTW, I saute roasted tomatoes with onions, garlic, shaved carrots, and mushrooms, then let that all cool before I add it to the seasoned ground beef (salt, pepper, oregano,basil,and left over rice) for a meatloaf! xoxo
ReplyDeleteJoy of Cooking is WONDERFUL. It's my go-to wedding gift. I would gladly eat Meatloaf Chez Savannah!
DeleteWHAT? Hunts had to have a whole cookbook????
ReplyDeleteThe advertising department said they had to, so they did. Would that they had NOT.
DeleteOh, you have excelled yourself on the "yuck-factor" here! The idea of tinned salmon with tinned tomato sauce and processed cheese then made into burgers and eaten in a bun made me feel nauseous.
ReplyDeleteMadam Arcati, being a chef, is going to love this👹! Jx
This cookbook should be required study for all therapists dealing with childhood trauma!
DeleteA ha! Now I have the Salmon Burger recipe Jon should be afraid, very afraid. I might even add some 'Brown Sugar' just for fun.
DeleteI have "a few" cook books on my shelf. Not sure why, as I don't cook from any recipes in them! I used to have a brilliant book which translated EVERY food-related Americanism, but it was lost in a house move.
ReplyDeleteNow see, me? I had a Mrs. Beetons that described every food-related UK-ism out there. Lost that in the flood! Somewhere out in the universe there is a parallel timeline where our cookbooks meet and get married.
DeleteOh I am pleased. I did vote for a post on 'Hunts Complete Tomato Sauce Cookbook' back in February.
ReplyDeleteI love promotional cookbooks and this one looks awsome and a bit scarry. The very though of Salmon Burgers is enough to give me nightmares
I started Catering Colledge in 1976. Cookery was very diferent then and there was always something in Aspic.
PS.
I agree with the cat but would still love to have this book and also agree that The'Joy of Cooking' is indeed a wonderful cookery book.
Cook books are for the weak.
ReplyDeleteBtw - you know that I love you, right ?
If you ever doubitated, now you know.
One loves you too! XXOO!!
Delete